Just like any Chateau and Relais establishment, the entrance of Martin Berasategui was dramatic when its background was suffused with a purplish sunset.
Just about 30 minutes by cab from San Sebastian, Martin Berasategui is situated in a nice little town called Lasarte-Oria. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating. The spacious setting provides plenty of privacy.
Their tasting menu has 15 course, each labeled with the year of creation.
In all honesty, I liked the setting more than the food. There were dishes that I failed to understand. Say the sautéed black garlic with beet ceviche, ice radish and raifort cream – the flavor combination and presentation was a bit chaotic for me. Dishes that kind of stood out was the mille-feuille of smoked eel, foie gras, spring onion and green apple (a classic creation of the restaurant), roasted pigeon served with its juices mixed with dead olives, liquid tubers stuffed with truffle (not the best pigeon I had, but the texture was good enough for my liking) and the smoked sponge with coca crunch, frozen whisky cream, crushed ice, green beans and mint (rather refreshing for the summer).
The meal actually went down hill after the oyster with cucumber. Most of the dishes were a bit unexciting for me. In addition to the slow service, I wanted to leave the restaurant right after the meal. Yet, it still took me 30 minutes to get my bill. A Michelin 3 star meal? Maybe not really the case this time.
Address: Loidi Kalea, 4 – 20160 Lasarte-Oria, Gipuzkoa, Spain
Tel: +34 943 366 471 / +34 943 361 599
Visited on: 20 Sept 2014
Hours: Lunch – 1pm – 2:45pm; Dinner – 8:30pm to 11:15pm; Closed – Sunday evening, Monday and Tuesday all day.
Chef: Martin Berasategui