Previously traumatised by my experience at Sketch in London, I was initially reluctant to visit another Pierre’s restaurant for a while. Chef Jean Denis joined Pierre Hong Kong in 2013. My first experience of his team’s cooking was way more enjoyable than my experience at Sketch.
Located on the 25/F of the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, the restaurant commands a nice view of the Victoria Harbour. Tables are reasonably spaced apart by Hong Kong standards.
The meal started off with a light and refreshing item – Oscietra caviar quenelle: jellified borsch, white beetroot puree, diced pier/celeriac/chive/lime, thick cream, vodka granite and cucumber. Another food blogger and I both agreed the cucumber ice overwhelmed the subtleties of the dish – it would be much better if they toned it down a little.
My favourite dish that day was the scallop and cuttlefish with sea urchin. The cuttlefish was very tender, and with a touch of sea urchin bisque it gave a complementing umami touch. Not too far behind is the comte cheese with yellow wine jelly and quince paste. The jelly was well made and went down well with the cheese.
The main dish however, disappointed. The doe was slightly overcooked and the berry sauce covered the flavours of the doe. The combination of doe and apple ice cream with cinnamon didn’t work for me either.
Overall, the staff were quite accomodating with our requests. Putting all the factors – food, service and environment – together, we came to the conclusion that the restaurant fits nicely into the one-star bracket, rather than its present two.
Pierre
Address: 25/F, 5 Connaught Road Central, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2825 4001
Visited on: 1 April, 2014
Price: 7 Course Tasting Menu HKD$ 1588
Hours: Lunch: Mon- Fri 12:00 – 2:30 ; Dinner: Mon – Sat 6:00 – 00:00
Chef: Jean Denis
I was also disappointed with Pierre. I found the food ‘too fancy’ if it makes sense, and too complicated without the complexity and depth of flavours. Mandarin Grill and Bar downstairs was far superior.